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Hi wayavi,

Nice to meet someone who has done their 'homework', BEFORE posting!

Your 1300 Duron Morgan has a 'stock' Vcore of 1.75v... it's not uncommon for the on-board voltage regulators, or sensor, to read slightly high. (your 1.808v)
It IS 'unlocked', but that doesn't do you much good on the K7S5A, because there is no 'multi adjustment', in any BIOS

You are correct that the 1300Duron is a poor overclocker, but it is definitely NOT a 'totally lost cause'

You are also correct, in that you will get better overall performance running with a higher FSB / lower multi, than the other way around.

Here's a few examples of my own Duron 1300, using SDRAM...
At an 'almost stock' 13.0 x 103 = 1339 MHz, I achieved a CPUmark99 'Score' of 85.4
But at 10 x 150 = 1500, and at 9 x 166 = 1499, I saw dramatic increases in performance!

As you can see, I get a ~20% improvement by running at 10.0 x 150, or 27.6% by using an even higher FSB (109/85.4 = 1.276, OR a 27.6% improvement from 'stock')

That 'Processor Test', or CPUmark99, that shows up in most of my screenshots, is available directly, from here...
http://www.freewebs.com/milt/CPUMRK99.ZIP
This is a small (only 204 KB), very fast ( about ~ 30 seconds), and reasonably accurate measure of exactly how well your processor and memory combination is working together.
Higher numbers indicate better performance.
This program does not stress your system very much, so it will run, when other benchmarks (i.e. 3D Mark 2001), will cause your system to freeze, or cause a reboot.

You will always get a higher, and more consistent result, by running almost any testing program from a 'fresh boot'

You should get a copy of that, and then run an initial 'baseline test', with your CPU/MEMORY set at 100/100, so that you'll have a record of just how much your confuser improves it's performance, as we go along.

On a different mobo, where I have an option of 200 MHz FSB, (and also DDR memory), the performance increase is even more dramatic!

So that would be a 38% increase, (from the 'baseline' of 85.4), but unfortunately it's just not possible on the K7S5A.


I can't swear on it, but I believe that the 'wire-trick' will work for multi adjustments on your 1300 Duron Morgan (which uses the same 'core' as the Athlon XP, A.K.A. Palomino.
It definitely will for the voltage adjustments.

Doing the 'L5 mod to mobile' will give you an 11.0 multi, but unless you 'bump' the Vcore to 1.85v, I doubt that you'll be able to boot at all.

I would suggest going for 1.85v Vcore (using either pencil or wire), and using the 'wire-trick' to lower the multi.

Hi wayavi,

There is a 'divisor change' in-between 110/110 and 112/112 that causes the instant 'freeze', regardless of which software (SpeedFan, CPUCooL, CPUFSB) you use.

If you have been able to boot to "1420MHz using CPUCooL" (and I assume that was a 13 x 110 = 1430), and have used the 'fine-tuning' in CPUCooL to get up above 1500MHz, then you should have no problem booting at 11 x 112/112 = 1232MHz, or even 11 x 124/124 = 1364MHz
And that's on 'stock' 1.75v Vcore.

The above pre-supposes that you have flashed to an OC BIOS that allows you to select either 112/112 or 124/124 as the boot speed.
Your "flashingbiosphobia" is well founded, but we have 'safe' methods for flashing your BIOS, such as the AMIBOOT.ROM trick, if you are willing to take SOME risk.

Without a BIOS flash, the only other way to get into that essential '4' divisor range, is to 'bump' your Vcore to 1.85v using the 'wire-trick', or the 'pencil-trick', and then attempt to boot to 11 x 133 = 1463MHz
Since you already know that your CPU is capable of 1500+ MHz, even on 'stock' Vcore, this shouldn't be any problem.


Once you have successfully booted into that '4' divisor range, you can use either CPUCooL (my choice), or SpeedFan (the quick, easy way), to go to any of these FSBs that your CPU (AND your memory), is willing to run at...
112/112->124/124->133.9/133.9->137.3/34.4/137.3->142.7/35.7/142.7->146.7/36.7/146.7->166.7/33.3/166.7

To get to 150/150 you MUST HAVE an OC BIOS installed, and boot STRAIGHT to 150/150. It is the ONLY WAY to get to 150/150


After you do the 'L5 mod to Mobile', in order to LOWER your multiplier, (from 11.0x), you need to use CrystalCPUID...
crystalmark.info/?lang=en
Click 'Function' -> AMD K7/K8 Multiplier
Slide that new 'AMD K7/K8 Multiplier' window to the side, so you can still see the main window.
Click the 'down arrow' beside 'New Multiplier'
Select any multiplier that is LOWER than what shows in the top box, beside 'New Multiplier'
If your multiplier has now changed, (over in the 'main window'), and your new speed shows in the main window, and you want to 'save a shortcut' to this new multiplier onto your desktop, just click "Create Shortcut on Desktop" in the small window.

You CAN'T change the voltage (with CrystalCPUID, or any other software), on any desktop mobo, and usually, what shows as the "current" and "startup" and "max" voltage is incorrect.


So, I would advise you to do the 'L5 mod to Mobile' FIRST.
Check it, to see if it then boots up with an 11.0 multiplier, at 11 x 100 = 1100 MHz.
If it does, go into CMOS and attempt to boot to 11 x 133 = 1463 MHz
You already know that your CPU is good for that speed, and higher, but we DON'T KNOW whether it will BOOT to that speed.
Try it.
If it doesn't boot at 11 x 133 = 1463 MHz, then you'll need to do the 'wire-trick' (see below), OR you could easily do the 'pencil-trick' while you are attempting the 'L5 mod to Mobile'
Take look at this webpage...
www.ocinside.de/go_e.html...nting.html
Select your 'desired Vcore voltage as being 1.75v (that's what you have now)
Notice that there is just ONE pair of bridges in the centre that have not yet been 'joined'
"Join' those two dots with a pencil.
Presto! You have 1.85v Vcore, which is the max you can get on any K7S5A without adding resistors to the mobo itself.


THE WIRE TRICK - ADD 0.2 volts - for PALOMINO/DURON

The 'wire-trick' had me confused for the longest time... it took me a long time to realize that the four 'wires' which appear in the 'stock' window (see below) represent the four already closed L11 voltage bridges that are on the top of your CPU

Right-click the URL below, click 'copy shortcut' from the drop-down menu, then open two new windows to this page...
www.ocinside.de/go_e.html...inmod.html

Change the 'CPU view' to 'Socket view' on the pages you've opened.
It doesn't matter which processor is selected for changing voltages... all Socket 'A' CPUs are exactly the same in respect to voltage adjustments.

The first window is your 'stock' Window, so change the 'Voltage selection' to what you have now... 1.75v

In the second window change the 'Voltage selection' to 1.85v

Now, toggle back and forth between the 'stock' window and the second window.
Can you see where you need to add just that ONE tiny little wire?

The image below should help... EXCEPT THAT, in the case of your Palomino, the wire will be going DOWN and to the right, not UP and to the right.

To view the image above, hit Printable Version or POSt REPLY at the top of this page

Remember that you do NOT need to concern yourself with anything that appears in the 'stock' window, you just need to ADD that ONE new wire that appears in the second window.


For the wire trick...
You'll need one single strand, from a single wire of a stranded ribbon cable, (an old floppy or hard drive cable), cut about 1 cm long.
Pick it up with hemostats, tweezers, or needle-nose pliers, not quite in the middle, and bend it into a 'U' shape with unequal length legs, about 1/8" apart, so that it looks something vaguely like this...


Figure out which holes it needs to go into from the pin-mod guide, and insert the 'long' leg first.
You'll need a good magnifying glass, and strong lighting.

After doing this 'mod', when you come back up, go straight into CMOS and sit there watching your 'CPU Temperature' on the 'Hardware Monitor' page for a couple of minutes.
We just want to be certain that it's staying under 50C, while in CMOS.

Hi wayavi,

I have no personal experience with CHFSB, but I found a good FAQ about it over on OCWB...
www.ocworkbench.com/hardw...sb_faq.htm

That FAQ says that "Chfsb has been developed by Cheepoman", so if you are dead set on using that, rather than any of the advice I've given you here in this thread, or that you found in the "Beginner's guide to overclocking the K7S5A", then I would suggest that you switch over to the OCWB Forum, and see if Cheepoman is willing to help.
forum.ocworkbench.com/ocw...forum&f=27

I've already given you the best advice I have available.
Do with it as you chose.