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Hi KEhrhardt, and Welcome to the K7S5A Forum!

It sounds to me like you are booting at 100/100, and then trying to 'bump' your FSB above 110/110
You can't do it, not with any software that I'm aware of.
There is a 'divisor change', from a '3', to a '4', in-between 110/110 and 112/112

From a 112/112 (or 133/133) boot speed, you can use CPUCooL (or SpeedFan) to attempt to go anywhere in this 'string'...
112/112->124/124->133.9/133.9->137.3/34.4/137.3->142.7/35.7/142.7->146.7/36.7/146.7->166.7/33.3/166.7
To get to 150/150 you MUST HAVE an OC BIOS installed and boot straight to 150/150.
It is the ONLY WAY that I know of, to get to 150/150

Have you tried to boot at 133/133 ???

Try the Honey-X BIOS and see if you can boot at 124/124

Try SpeedFan, on any of your other three K7S5As, and see if you can go from a 100/100 boot to anything higher than 110/110
You can't.
There is a 'divisor change', in the PLL clock generator, that causes the 'instant freeze'
In SpeedFan, divide the first number by the second number to get the 'divisor'... it's usually a 'whole number', like 3, or 4, or 5, and you can't 'switch' between divisors, while you are running, in Windows.

The fact that CrystalCPUID says you are running at 99.55 (or 99.56), tells me that your system is coming up in the BIOS's 'Failsafe Mode'
Compare CrystalCPUID's readings on any of your other machines, at a 100/100 boot speed.
It will read 100.xx, and NOT 99.5x
This tells us that, for whatever reason, your system is not capable of booting at the specified speed, and is coming up in the 'Failsafe Mode' instead.
This is better than it not coming up at all, as is happening if you set 133/33, but unfortunately it doesn't tell us WHY it does it.


To the best of my knowledge, the "standard ECS BIOS dated 08/09/2002" does NOT have any option to boot at "150/150", so what speed are you actually booting at ???
The fact that you can get from whatever you actually boot at, to 150/150 is MOST unusual... I've never heard of anyone getting to 150/150, EXCEPT with the use of an OC BIOS
Please enlighten us on this point.

Simplify your life.
Switch to a Honey-X BIOS.
Set the FSB you want to boot at, in "CMOS Setup".
Use CPUCooL (or SpeedFan) to switch FSBs, in Windows, if you need to.
No reboots are required.
It's simple, and it works.

You need to read the "Beginner's guide to overclocking the K7S5A" from the link at the top of the page.

With a Palomino 1600+ on my K7S5A, and SpeedFan, I could go from a 133/133 boot to 166/166, in Windows, using good SDRAM...




My question to you was basically 'What speed do you have set, in 'CMOS Setup', BEFORE you use SetFSB' ???
I still don't know the answer...


BTW, it IS called "SetFSB"
http://www13.plala.or.jp/setfsb/

Hi KEhrhardt, (what's the "K' stand for?)

I'm glad you have finally tried one of the Honey-X BIOSes, and that it worked for you.

Now it's time to get familiar with SpeedFan (small, easy to use, but limited to a maximim of 166/166 MHz), or CPUCooL (larger, and less 'user-friendly', but people have achieved much higher FSB's in CPUCooL)

Try SpeedFan first.
Boot at the same 143/143 that you are now, and select 147/147 on the 'Clock' page.
If that seems reasonably stable, try 'jumping', all the way up to 166/166

And if that works (it should, with your +12v = 18A, and PC3200 = DDR400 = 200Mhz memory, plus a 1.80v 'wire'), come back, and we'll introduce you to the 'proper' version of CPUCooL


The best I ever did, using an 'L5 modded to Mobile' Barton 2500+ was 2400 MHz.


You should be able to beat that, without working anything too hard.

Hi Kurt,

If you can get to 166/166 with SpeedFan, but after awhile it screws up, that's usually because the CPU is heating up.

Get some better cooling on there... at 16 x 166/166 = 2666 MHz you are running at the equivalent of an XP 4100+
(I use this little tool to calculate the AMD XP xxxx + 'rating')
home.btconnect.com/barney...tool2a.zip

That deserves some decent cooling and a ThermalTake Volcano 6cu CPU cooler just doesn't cut it!

Hi Kurt,

The only XP-M 2800+ Barton Mobile (that I'm aware of), is the AXMA2800FKT4C which runs at 16 x 133 = 2133 MHz
But it runs 'stock', on 1.65V, so the addition of ONE wire should 'bump' the Vcore by 0.20v, to 1.85v
So why do you need two wires ???
There IS a 2800+ CPU that runs on 1.60v, but it's an 'MP', not an 'M', the ... AMSN2800DUT4C

Re: COOLING...

There are many, many, easy, inexpensive ways to cool things down, if that's what's needed, and I believe that it is.

Just arranging your ribbon cables, so that they don't obstruct the air flow to the CPU, is one. (use plastic 'wire ties', so that you don't short anything out)

Using the "Arctic Silver 5" thermal paste, (if you aren't already), as a TIM (Thermal Interface Material) is good for at least a 3 to 5C drop in CPU temperatures, compared with conventional phase change pads that are pre-attached to many heatsinks.
www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm

'Lapping' of your current HS (HeatSink) is another, and it is good for yet another 3 to ~5 Celsius drop in CPU temps... please ask, if you need more instructions... I've got 'em, in Spades!
www.themodfathers.jolt.co...ow&id=6153

And here's a $5 'cooling solution', that really works!
Basically, you substitute a larger diameter, slower turning (read 'quieter'), fan, that moves a greater volume of air.
Then, you cut a hole in the side panel to draw cool, room temperature air, from outside of the case, to cool your CPU.
Details can be found here... superfan.freewebspace.com/


CASE VENTILATION...

When it comes to case ventilation, it is much more important to get the hot air out, than to blow cool air in.
There are lots of air inlet points at the bottom, and particularly at the bottom front, of ANY case.
It's getting the hot air out of the case that's so difficult.


A single, large, exhaust fan (or two smaller ones, side by side), at the very top of the case is the best solution, but that usually requires that you somehow cut a hole in the very top of the case yourself.
Erik's ('DeepSheet'), instructions can be found here...

http://www.freewebs.com/deepsheet/PC%20mods/Adding%20fans.htm

I can't understand why case manufacturers don't put a nice round 80mm or 90mm hole, with a simple chrome grill covering it, at the top centre of their case.
That would allow the hot air that's trapped inside your case to rise by simple convection, and exit through the hole at the top.
It just makes too much sense, I guess!

Second best is a single exhaust fan at the back of the case, just below the PSU.


Or, just buy a better CPU HS/F, and if you prefer cool AND quiet, then go to water-cooling.

Hi Kurt,

That must be a relatively new CPU... as I said, I've never heard of a 'Mobile' like yours.
And, FWIW, it is the ONLY 'Mobile' that I've ever seen with those characteristics...
The 'H', (in the 'FHQ4C'), means that it was designed to run at 1.55v Vcore when installed in a notebook... which makes it the ONLY Mobile I've heard of running on 1.55v... more on that below...
The 'Q' in the 'FHQ4C' means that it was designed to run at a maximum core temp of 100C, which is the highest of any Socket 'A' CPU.
The '4' in the 'FHQ4C' means that it has the 512K of L2 cache of the Barton.
The 'C' in the 'FHQ4C' means that it was designed to run at a 133/266 MHz/DDR FSB bus speed.

You'll find some (but not all), of that info on this excellent webpage...
www.thedigerati.us/info/a....html#semp


This chart I've created gives the letter in the first column, then the corresponding Vcore, and if it's a Mobile's voltage, what that Mobile's Vcore will become, WHEN that Mobile is used with any 'Desktop' BIOS.

IF your CPU is a 'Mobile', including a 'DTR', (a DeskTop Replacement), your letter 'translates' into the the third column... for anything else, use the second column.

J = 1.35 = 1.525 (an extra 0.175 volt is 'added', IF a Desktop BIOS is used with this 'Mobile')
V = 1.40 = 1.550 (an extra 0.150 volt)
Q = 1.45 = 1.575 (an extra 0.125 volt)
L = 1.50 = 1.600 (an extra 0.100 volt)
H = 1.55 = 1.625 (an extra 0.075 volt)
U = 1.60 = 1.650 (an extra 0.050 volt)
K = 1.65 = 1.675 (an extra 0.025 volt)
M = 1.75 = not applicable... there are no mobiles with 1.75v Vcore

And the real beauty of the wire-trick is that with ANY of the above CPUs, (EXCEPT FOR the "M = 1.75v" ), if you add the one wire pictured below, you will add exactly 0.20 volts to your 'real' Vcore voltage.


So, when you added that wire pictured above, you increased the Vcore 0.20v, from what should have been detected as 1.625v, (1.60v reported), to what should be detected as 1.825 (you 'read' 1.79v)
The wire that you needed to add to get from 1.825v (1.79v 'detected') to the 'max' of 1.85v was different from what you thought.... in effect, you 'closed a bridge' that was already 'closed' on the top of your CPU.
There is a 'different bridge' that is still 'open'... you need to add the 'bottom wire'

Please, please, invest some of your time, or money, or both, into getting it to run cooler.
Your 2800+ has THE BEST characteristics of ANY 2800+ 'mobile' that AMD has ever released, and with proper cooling will set a 'new standard', for the venerable, but much loved, K7S5A.